I bugs me when people who know me and the last two years of my life, ask me “how are you.” I know they mean well, but it just reminds me of how shitty I feel all the time. “Fine thanks.” (I want to throw up).
Also, I want to live where I can surf year around in board shorts and a t-shirt. wearing a 4/3 and booties half the year is balls.
Paddled out today at Heavens (north Malibu). Still having a hard time getting to my feet due to the back surgeries, but…I feel stronger every time I paddle out and at some point, getting to my feet again won’t be an issue. I guess I should have taken a pic of the day, but it just didn’t occur to me at the time. Oh well.
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El Porto was firing this morning and I managed to paddle out into the lineup. Didn’t even try to catch anything. Just getting out felt like an accomplishment. I paddled around for a bit till I felt like I had worked my back enough, then caught some whitewater in. Now my arms feel so heavy I’m not even sure I can play WoW.