A long-distance swimmer was attacked by a great white shark today just south of the Manhattan Beach Pier, where the beach was jammed with crowds enjoying the warm holiday weekend, authorities said.The victim, identified only as a male 35 to 40
Crazy town! We see great whites all the time in the line up at El Porto, but this is the first attack. This attack happened about a mile south of where I was surfing. A solid 9 footer was spotted today by Charlie on his SUP swimming around were my friends and I were surfing, but it swam away when a couple of us paddled toward it.
Pro surfer who I’m not willing to name, paddled up to me today and wanted to know what happened to me. Apparently, someone told him I used to be a “charger” and he wanted to know the story. I’ve been out in the water with him before, and we know all the same people and talked a couple times, but today was different.
After I told him what happened, we split the set waves for about an hour. Him left, me right or him right, me left. Was pretty cool. I don’t get all weird when famous or recognized people are around me having worked in film and television for 20 years now. But when a pro wants to share waves with you, it’s an undeniable good feeling.
Had one of the best days surfing today…wasn’t huge or super consistent, but I did have a fun little sandbar all to myself for an hour and a half. Only thing that could have made it better was sharing it with my friends.
Bonus was not seeing the juvenile great white sharks (6-8’) trolling around. I’m not too concerned with getting chomped, but it is still unnerving seeing them swimming around.
I bugs me when people who know me and the last two years of my life, ask me “how are you.” I know they mean well, but it just reminds me of how shitty I feel all the time. “Fine thanks.” (I want to throw up).
Also, I want to live where I can surf year around in board shorts and a t-shirt. wearing a 4/3 and booties half the year is balls.